Lucy and I have climbed Mount Adams (12,276 feet) many times from the relatively easy southern route that begins at Cold Springs trailhead. This route provides little difficulty; requiring a minimum of ice-ax, crampons and no ropes or crevasse crossing hardware. It starts at an elevation of 5,600 feet, leading to a convenient bivouac location at 9,000 feet with protected level tent-sites; and from there the ascent to the summit, 3,300 feet above, is made via a moderately steep snow-slope with little or no exposure.

This year, Lucy, Mal Hill and I decided to try a route much more challenging, both in difficulty and commitment. The various north face routes are primarily used as one way passage; that is, ascended but not descended because of loose footing, rock-fall danger and steep exposed sections along the route. Our plan was to ascend the North Cleaver from Killen Creek trailhead, traverse the summit and descend via the standard southern route. This plan required us to carry overnight gear for three days on the mountain, including tent, stove and extra food. After some judicious selection of only the most necessary items we packed the overnight gear and climbing equipment (no rope or pro) into our three individual day-packs.

Viewed from our high camp at 7,500 feet, the Cleaver looked steep and nasty, but proved relatively easy with our light packs, perfect weather and an early morning start. We crossed the summit just after noon on Sunday, July 31 and began the tiring slog down the southern route after the obligatory photos and usual B-S with fellow climbers sunning on the summit. With time and light on our side, we chose to descend all the way to the Cold Springs trailhead before calling it quits for the day. A very satisfying climb of a familiar mountain.

Peter Tremayne. Vancouver, WA August, 2005