Since the summer of 1987, I've climbed Mt. Adams at least 20 times and always from the 'easy' southern route that begins at Cold Springs trail-head. This southern route provides little difficulty; requiring a minimum of an ice-ax, crampons and no ropes or crevasse crossing hardware. The route starts at an elevation of 5,600 feet, leading to a convenient bivouac location at 9,000 feet with protected level tent-sites; and from there the ascent to the summit, 3,300 feet above, is made via a moderately steep snow-slope.

On August 9, 2004, I decided at short notice to climb Adams in conjunction with a field trial of some 'wilderness hammocks' sent to me by various manufacturers of this latest concept in lightweight hiking equipment. My plan was to use the hammocks at Cold Springs trail-head, near the timberline and follow up with a quick climb of the mountain ... just for the exercise! In the event, I was advised by the Trout Lake Ranger Station during registration for the climb that the southern route had just been closed because of a forest fire in the Cold Springs area. This left me two choices: either forget about the climb and drive the two hours home or attempt one of the more difficult ascent routes on the northern face of the mountain.

Not to be deterred from a climb, it was with some trepidation I drove the additional 20 to 30 timber road miles to the northern sector of Mt.Adams with a plan to 'hang in the trees' for the night at the Killen Creek trail-head; leave early the next morning with backpack and climbing gear for a look at the Northern Cleaver route from a high camp location. The various north face routes are primarily used as one way passage; that is, ascended but not descended because of loose footing, rock-fall danger and steep exposed sections along the route. In my case, because the southern route (normally used for descent) was closed with the fire, if I decided to climb the Cleaver I'd have no option but to return the same way. Not a pleasant prospect.

Viewed from my high camp at 7,500 feet, the Cleaver looked darn near unclimbable, but proved relatively easy once I'd figured out the route. It was however, a long, tiring day of scrambling to the summit and then returning, with great care, back down the narrow steep ridge to the camp. I encountered very few other climbers on the route and only one, Paul from Olympia, made it to the summit with me. The remainder turned back shortly after starting up the Cleaver ... either through exhaustion, or the realization they'd taken on more than expected.

Peter Tremayne. Vancouver, WA August, 2004